A well-prepared skull mount is a lasting reminder of a good stalk. The difference between a bright white trophy and one that turns yellow and greasy in a few years is mostly in the degreasing and bleaching steps.
1. Removing the tissue
Most stalkers either macerate the skull (soak it in water at a steady warm temperature so bacteria break down the tissue) or simmer it gently. Don't boil it hard: it damages the bone, loosens teeth and can crack the nasal bones. Keep the antlers out of the water, and wrap the antler bases to protect them. Remove the brain and remaining tissue as it softens.
2. Degreasing
Bone contains fat that slowly leaches out and turns a skull yellow. Soak it in warm water with a strong degreasing washing-up liquid, changing the water as it clouds, until no more grease appears. This can take days, but it's the step that keeps the trophy white.
3. Whitening
Ballistol trophy bleach is made to clean and whiten hunting trophies, skulls and bones so they look as they did originally. Apply it as directed on the pack, to the bone only. Keep it off the antlers and pedicles, which you want to keep their natural colour, by masking them with cling film and tape.
Wear gloves and eye protection, work in a ventilated space, and follow the product's safety instructions.
4. Drying
Rinse as instructed and let the skull dry fully in a dry, airy place out of direct sun for several days. Glue back any loose teeth.
5. Antlers and mounting
Once dry, a light wipe of Ballistol on the antlers helps keep them from drying out and brings back some depth of colour. Buff off any excess. Use stainless screws or brackets for the plaque so they don't rust.
Keeping it looking good
Dust the mount occasionally with a soft brush. Keep it out of direct sunlight and away from damp walls.
