Classic cars rarely rust while being driven. They rust standing still in a garage, where condensation forms on cold metal night after night. The aim of laying up is to keep the car clean, dry and protected until spring.
1. Clean it thoroughly
Wash the car, including the wheel arches and underside, to remove all traces of road salt. Dry it completely, including door shuts, sills and drain holes. Wax the paintwork to give it a protective layer.
2. Protect the metal
- Spray Ballistol into door, bonnet and boot hinges, locks and catches.
- Wipe a thin film over chrome bumpers, trim and wire wheels to stop pitting. Buff off the excess.
- Treat exposed metal in the engine bay: brackets, linkages, carburettor linkages and battery clamps.
- Wipe rubber door seals with silicone oil so they don't stick or crack.
Cavity protection and underseal are specialist jobs, but a light spray of oil on exposed underside fixings and brake pipe clips (not the brakes themselves) helps.
3. Battery
Connect a smart charger or battery conditioner, or remove the battery and store it frost-free on a maintainer. Clean the terminals and give them a light coat of oil.
4. Fuel and fluids
Brim the tank to reduce condensation inside it, and add a fuel stabiliser, particularly with modern E10 fuel in older fuel systems. Change the engine oil before storage rather than after, because used oil contains acids that sit on the bearings all winter.
5. Tyres and brakes
Pump the tyres up a few PSI above normal to help prevent flat spots, or put the car on axle stands. Leave the handbrake off (chock the wheels instead) so the shoes or pads don't stick to the drums or discs.
6. Interior
Clean and vacuum it, and condition leather seats (see leather care). A tub of moisture absorber in the footwell helps. Crack a window very slightly if the garage is secure.
7. Cover and garage
Use a soft, breathable indoor cover. Never plastic sheeting, which traps condensation. A dehumidifier in the garage is the best single investment for a stored car.
