Most oils do one thing well. Ballistol does several things reasonably well at once, and that comes down to a few unusual properties.
It's slightly alkaline
Most lubricants are pH neutral. Ballistol sits at around pH 8 to 8.5. That matters because the things that start corrosion are usually acidic: hand sweat, fingerprints, residue from corrosive primers and black powder, even the tannic acid left in leather. A film of Ballistol neutralises them rather than just covering them.
It doesn't resinify
Many oils oxidise over time. They thicken, turn yellow and sticky, and eventually harden into a varnish that jams mechanisms. This is called resinification. Ballistol doesn't do it, so a lock, trigger or hinge oiled years ago still moves freely. It also means it's safe for long-term storage.
It creeps
Ballistol has low surface tension, so it spreads into very fine gaps, under rust, into threads and between tight-fitting parts. That's why it frees seized bolts and gets into hinge knuckles without being taken apart.
It mixes with water
Add Ballistol to water and it forms a milky emulsion. Shooters use this as a black powder cleaning solution, and diluted it can be used as a light protective and cleaning wipe. When the water evaporates, a thin film of oil is left behind.
It's safe on most materials
It won't harm most metals (including aluminium and alloys), hard plastics, oil-resistant rubber, car paint or gel coat, and it cares for wood and smooth leather. It does dissolve traces of copper, zinc and lead, which is why it cleans brass and copper fouling. See which plastics and paints are safe.
It's electrically almost an insulator
Its conductivity is roughly 1/60th that of water, so it can be used on electrical contacts to keep out moisture. See electrical equipment.
Limits worth knowing
- It isn't food grade. Use H1 Food Oil for food contact.
- Don't use it on suede or nubuck.
- The aerosol is flammable.
- It has a distinctive smell when first applied, which fades within a day or two.
