A bike chain lubricant has one job: keep a thin film of oil inside each roller and pin, where the chain actually wears, and keep water and grit out. Pick the right type for the weather you ride in and apply it to a clean chain, and a chain lasts thousands of miles longer. Pick the wrong one, or put too much on, and it turns into grinding paste.
Chain lube is one of those things where more is worse. Lube on the outside of the chain does nothing except collect grit. What matters is getting a small amount inside each roller, where the metal actually wears.
Choosing a bike chain lubricant
Every chain lube is a trade-off between how long it lasts and how clean it stays. Wetter, stickier lubricants last longer in rain but hold more dirt; drier ones stay clean but need re-applying more often.
| Type | Best for | Lasts | Stays clean | Ballistol option |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wet / all-weather | UK autumn to spring, commuting, wet trails | Long | Fair | Bike X Lube |
| Dry PTFE | Summer roads, dusty trails | Short in rain | Very | Bike DryLube |
| Ceramic | Long rides, longer gaps between re-lubing | Longest | Good | Ceramic Chain Oil |
| E-bike | Mid-drive and hub motor e-bikes | Long under load | Good | E-Bike Chain Oil |
| Wax | Dry-weather riders willing to strip and re-wax | Medium | Cleanest | None; see below |
If you only buy one bike chain lubricant for riding in Britain, make it an all-weather lube. Add a dry lube for summer if you ride a lot in dry, dusty conditions.
Which lube for which conditions
All-weather and wet lube
For most UK riding from October to April, an all-weather lube is the safe choice. It stays on through rain and spray. Bike X Lube is an all-season spray designed for extreme conditions and also drives water out of the chain.
Dry and PTFE lube
Dry lubes go on wet and leave a thin, low-friction film that picks up much less dust. They're good for summer road riding and dusty trails, but wash off quickly in the rain. Use Bike DryLube PTFE spray on forks, dampers and dropper posts as well.
Ceramic lube
Ceramic chain oil is made for high loads and long intervals between applications. It's a good fit for riders who cover big distances, and for e-bikes.
E-bikes
Motor-assisted drivetrains put far more torque through the chain, so they wear chains faster. E-bike chain oil is formulated for that load. Re-lube more often than you would on a normal bike.
The best wet chain lube for UK weather
A good wet chain lube for British riding needs three things: it has to stay on through standing water and road spray, it has to push water out of the rollers rather than trap it, and it has to protect the chain from rust between rides, because a bike left in a shed after a wet ride starts to rust overnight.
Bike X Lube is built for that. It is an all-season lube that creeps into the rollers, drives out water, resists salt and protects against rust. On a winter commuter, re-apply it every 100 to 150 miles or after any properly wet ride, on a clean chain.
Dry lube vs wet lube for year-round road cycling
If you ride on the road all year in the UK, use a wet lube from October to April and a dry lube from late spring through summer. A dry lube on its own washes off in the first heavy shower; a wet lube on its own picks up more road dust in a dry August.
| Wet lube | Dry lube | |
|---|---|---|
| Rain and spray | Stays on | Washes off quickly |
| Dust and grit | Holds some | Stays clean |
| Re-apply | Every 100 to 150 miles | Every 50 to 100 miles |
| Best months (UK) | October to April | May to September |
| Ballistol | Bike X Lube | Bike DryLube |
Want one bottle for the whole year? Pick the wet lube and wipe the chain more often in summer. Switching between types is fine; degrease the chain first so they don't mix.
What about chain wax?
Wax lubes (and hot-dipped wax) run very clean and quiet, and many road riders swear by them. The trade-off is preparation: the chain has to be stripped completely clean before the first application, and wax needs re-applying often, especially in the wet. If you don't want that routine, a good all-weather or ceramic lube gives most of the benefit for far less effort.
Can you use WD-40 on a bike chain?
A water-displacing multi-purpose spray is handy for drying a chain after a wash, but it's too thin to last as a chain lubricant and can thin out the lube already in the rollers. Dry the chain with it if you like, then apply a proper chain lube. The same goes for Ballistol Universal Oil: great on cables, pivots and bolts, but use a dedicated chain lube on the chain itself.
Signs your chain needs lubricant
- It squeaks or chirps as you pedal.
- The rollers look dry or grey rather than slightly glossy.
- Gear changes feel rough or slow to settle.
- You can see orange rust starting on the plates after rain.
How to apply it
- Clean and dry the chain first. See how to clean a bike chain.
- Backpedal slowly and apply one drop to each roller on the inner side of the lower chain run. For sprays, a short, steady burst along the rollers.
- Keep going for one full revolution of the chain. Many chains have a coloured quick link to mark where you started.
- Shift through the gears to spread it, then leave it for five minutes, or longer for dry lube so the carrier can evaporate.
- Wipe the outside of the chain firmly with a clean rag.
Degrease before you lube
A bike degreaser is the step most people skip. Old lube holds grit, and fresh lube on top just makes a grinding paste. Spray Chain Cleaner onto the chain and cassette, scrub with a brush, rinse or wipe dry, then lube. Every few weeks in winter is about right. Full method: how to clean a bike chain.
How often
When the chain starts to sound noisy or looks dry, after every wet ride, and after washing the bike. Dry lube needs topping up more often than wet.
Mind the brakes: cover disc rotors when spraying near the rear wheel, and never let lube reach the braking surface.
Mistakes that wear chains out
- Lubing a dirty chain. Fresh lube on top of old grit makes an abrasive paste. Degrease first.
- Too much. One drop per roller is enough. Wipe the outside afterwards.
- Overspray on the brakes. Spray lubes drift. Cover or turn the wheel away from disc rotors and pads, and never let lube reach a braking surface. Contaminated pads usually need replacing.
- The wrong oil. Cooking oil goes gummy, and thick motor oil holds grit. Use a lubricant made for chains.
- Lubing just before a ride. Give the lube 10 to 15 minutes to get into the rollers, or apply it the night before.
