A walnut stock can look tired after a couple of seasons. Rain, sweat and the odd splash of cleaning solvent dry the wood out until it goes grey and starts soaking up water instead of shedding it. Damp wood near the action can swell, and that's when cracks start.
An evening with some stock oil and a cloth puts most of that right.
Is your stock oil-finished?
Worth checking before you start, because oil only goes into an oil finish or bare wood. An oil-finished stock looks and feels like wood, with a soft sheen, and most traditional game guns are done this way. A lacquered stock has a hard, shiny coat sitting on top. That's common on factory rifles and air rifles. Synthetic stocks don't need oil at all.
If you can't tell, put a drop of oil somewhere hidden, under the recoil pad for instance. If it soaks in, carry on. If it sits there in a bead, it's lacquer, and all the stock needs is a wipe over with Ballistol Universal Oil.
Which stock oil?
People often ask what the best stock oil is. It depends on the job.
Linseed oil is the traditional choice for refinishing stripped wood. It looks lovely, but you're looking at many thin coats spread over several weeks. Hardening oils and oil-varnish blends build a tougher, glossier film, although they look less like natural wood and are fiddly to touch up later.
Most of the time, though, the job is reviving a stock that's dried out with use, and that's what our Balsin Gun Stock Oil is for. It makes weathered wood water-repellent again while still letting it breathe, and it brings the grain back up.
Balsin comes in 50ml bottles in three shades. Bright (clear) keeps the colour as it is. Red brown warms up faded or pale walnut, and dark brown deepens it and hides small scuffs. All of them darken the wood slightly, so try a hidden spot first.
One thing to bear in mind: Balsin contains silicone. If you might strip and varnish the stock one day, clean the wood thoroughly before you do, or the varnish won't key properly.
Oiling it
You'll need the stock oil, some Ballistol Universal Oil, a couple of lint-free cloths and an old soft toothbrush. Have some 0000 steel wool handy in case the grain feels rough.
Unload the gun and take the stock off if you can. That keeps oil out of the action and lets you get at the inletting, the hidden wood under the metal.
Clean the stock first with a cloth dampened with Ballistol. You may be surprised how much grime comes off. Wipe it dry and leave it for a few hours.
If the surface feels rough, rub it very lightly along the grain with the 0000 wool. Keep the wool well away from the chequering.
Now the oil. Put a few drops on a cloth or your fingers and rub it in along the grain, using less than you think you need. The warmth of your hand helps it go in. Give the inletting a thin coat as well, since that stops damp getting in from behind. After a few minutes, wipe off anything still sitting on the surface. That's the bit that goes sticky.
Leave it overnight in a warm room to dry properly, then do another coat. A dry, weathered stock usually wants two or three. If you're just maintaining it, one is enough.
Leave the chequering till last: a tiny amount on the toothbrush, worked in and then brushed out so the grooves don't fill up. Buff the whole stock with a clean cloth and refit it.
While the stock is off, look at the sling. If the leather has gone hard and creaks at the swivels, our guide on how to soften stiff leather covers slings, boots and gloves.
What catches people out
Too much oil, mainly. Wood only takes in so much and the rest turns gummy. A coat put on before the last one has dried won't cure properly either.
Storage matters too. If a gun goes into the cabinet muzzle-up with oil still in the action, that oil runs down into the head of the stock and softens the wood over time. Store guns muzzle-down and it can't happen.
A light coat once or twice a year is enough for most guns. Before and after the season works well, plus an extra one after any day when the stock got soaked, once it's dried out naturally.
Questions people ask
Can I just use Ballistol Universal Oil on my stock? Yes, for routine cleaning and protection. Use Balsin when the wood has actually dried out and needs bringing back.
Will stock oil make the wood darker? A little. The clear shade changes it least.
Can I use it on an air rifle stock? If it's oil-finished, yes. A lot of air rifle stocks are lacquered, so do the drop test first.
Balsin comes in bright, red brown and dark brown. Can't decide on a shade? Send a photo of your stock to sales@ballistol.co.uk or on WhatsApp (+44 (0) 7817 267314) and we'll suggest one.
More guides: How to Clean a Shotgun · How to Cold Blue a Gun · How to Soften Leather
